Those who do not have a big one are allowed to read, for you will NOT waste your time.))))
Bla bla bla, not necessarily read
Today, I ride a bike for the third year already (my birthday is at my merida, I'll go and break champagne on the frame)))
After the purchase, I almost immediately began to think about lighting at night, and I had to ride at different times.
At first I used a flashlight of 5-10-15-20 pcs of LEDs.
Then Friend Zhenya reconfigured a flashlight on "super-bright" LEDs in the Chanson shop.
But progress does not stand still, and all the more I did not like the optical and electronic component of that lamp.
I started thinking about buying a new lantern, fonarevka.ru I was told that the latest generation of CREE xml-T6 LEDs.
Having rummaged on DX.com I found an inexpensive flashlight with this diode in the C1 case. I liked everything, I ordered it.
It came, the lights were fine (until I broke it on the disassembly table, people, do not allow the unstabilized current directly into the diode))).
And do not wipe the reflector with anything other than a light movement with a rag, there is silver sputtering, to erase it as a grain you.
I ordered it again but with aliexpress, I wanted it with a crown (the awesome self-defense weapon turns out at night) and it was current there. Plus, quick expulsion at the same price.
Differences lanterns from different sites:
In the lantern from DX, the spot is clearer and narrower in the center, with the aliexpress being more central, but still as bright.
The reason is all in different angles of the reflector (cone)
About the lantern, due to the fact that I have 2 such lanterns (it was, one was ripped), I put double rubber bands in the lantern, so that it would be as airtight as possible.
Despite the double elastic bands, it twists very smoothly and easily.
All these lanterns have real glass.
Aluminum body and steel crown.
"Paw" for clinging to the belt and so on, I do not need, I took it off.
photo-video how shines
scene number 1 (low-med-hi)
scene number 2 (low-med-hi)
scene number 3 (low-med)
scene number 4 (med-hi)
photo of how it looks inside
Now a little about the intricacies. In general, the flashlight is already good without modifications, but for myself I have upgraded it:
* Laid the foil, for a better heat sink on the case.
* Changed the driver that I upgraded.
Min ~ 0.2A
med ~ 1A
Hi ~ 2A
For me this was a bit much, plus 2 additional modes that I do not need.
On the new driver, I did everything as I wanted.
In all the photos "as it is shining" there is an upgraded driver (AK-47).
Min ~ 0.02A
med ~ 0.4A
Hi ~ 1.3A
Weak mode for pedestrian for the eyes, and enough light with one battery for 2000 mAh for 100 hours (but something is hard to believe, and the brains at night refuse to count)
about the lantern in general, before the sluggish jumped offafter I drove alongside them, and now 10 meters before I get to them. And I realized that it was better to go in the center (like a car), otherwise I would be pushed into the ravine with a jump))).
To charge akumyu use such charging (or approximately).
I do not know which acuums are better, I have a discord. But I will definitely say the originals of Sanyo the best.
As for mounting, better IT not yet invented, no mechanics, consider the eternal (or wait until the rubber "gets tired") = D
the lantern in it shines almost in the center
and lastly, the kitten is, but I will not wake
At the request of workers infa driver.
There is such a wonderful element in the lamp, the driver is called, it controls the current, so that the diode would be comfortable to shine, if the driver voltage is high - it slows down (lowers).
If the current is small, it accelerates (with a kick and some kind of mother there).
Drivers still help the diode not to enter a short circuit with a battery, giving it only a certain current.
But stop talking.
I did the following:
I took the driver from the Chinese called AK-47A
It is built on a shimhke and 7135 stabilizers.
Its maximum output current is 1A, in order to increase this current, you need to solder another 1 to 3 stabilizers. And you will already have 1.3A at the maximum.
You can take it from another driver, for example THIS
(1 stabilizer 7135 transmits a current of ~ 0.35A, in the sum, where it is 4 * 0.35 = 1.3A (+ - 0.1A).
To control the modes there is a special jumper that allows you to select certain modes. its (asterisk) you just need to short-circuit with the body of the driver.
But there is of course much cheaper \ simple \ adequate options, but I don’t know them, and I don’t need them, I found the middle for myself.
although something is known first option second option ready to pay 600 ru for the driver of your dreams? =)
I don’t know how other woods have, but the plus of that isthat it signals a dead battery, forcibly switching the light to low brightness and starts flashing every 3 seconds. Well, the memory, respectively (protection from "contact bounce").