Car Charger YD-C01

Greetings to the readers! Today, consider a car charger.
Consider the inside and out. And also measure the current characteristics.
And so, the converter is a cylindrical monoblock made for a socket cigarette lighter.

The “plug” is made of milk-white plastic and carries information on the characteristics of the input / output current. For switching with the on-board network of the car, it is equipped with spring-loaded contacts.

At the outer end are two USB connectors and a ring of the optical fiber along the contour.

For reliability, the entire counterpart is enclosed inaluminum shell with notches, the color of which can be chosen when ordering goods. It's not for nothing that I called this charger a monoblock, it is assembled really clearly. The parts fit together very tightly; there are no backlashes or gaps. And nothing hangs inside.

Geometric measurements from other angles

When disassembling, I began to expand the joint between metal and plastic. It did not bring any results. Well, perhaps the appearance has deteriorated a little, although the performance has not been affected.

"And the casket just opened." To do this, you just need to pry off the plastic end cap.

After that, simultaneously sink both negativecontact deep into the case and take out the board. At the same time, if you intend to use a charger later, then you should pay attention to several points:
1) The metal cap of the positive contact is immediately lost, jumping off the spring with the characteristic sound “piiium!”
2) The topology of the electronic filling is such that the blockUSB ports are mounted on a separate board, which is fixed to the main one only with solder. This design does not tolerate excessive mechanical stress.
3) The internal design does not provide a fuse.

A few more photos of the insides

Well, now - field trials. I would also like to thank the Chinese engineers who made the fiber matte. The light of the signal LED is scattered and muffled. The retina does not burn out, does not distract from driving.

The maximum current that I managed to "unscrew"of each port was 2.5 amperes. And, strangely enough, the voltage dipped to a greater extent when the load was connected to the port marked “2.1A” (?). In this case, it amounted to 4.86 volts.

As for the port marked "1A", then with the same current strength of 2.5 amperes, the voltage on it is - 5.03 volts.

A further increase in the load leads to the fact that the voltage drops sharply to ~ 3.3 volts.
Now goodbye. Be good!