Good afternoon. Today I want to tell you about a projector purchased in China. This projector was purchased by me about six months ago, and of course, it was not without difficulties. The review is overloaded with photos and videos. Anyone who is interested, please join and be patient, because The review is too big.
Introduction A bit of background:
My wife and I like to watch good filmsOn cloudy evenings, a couple of times a week, and so during the repair process in the apartment we thought about the advisability of installing the projector on one of the walls. However, as one would expect, our desires and our financial capabilities diverged. Because the projector was selected neither as a replacement for TV, but, as an addition to it, then we decided not to do without buying expensive brands in an offline store, and interest in Chinese products has long been ripened.
A little bit of theory, then I'll do a little lyricalretreat and tell you about the main types of projectors in the Chinese market in the usual everyday Russian language. I think this information will be useful and moderators will skip it:
Types of Chinese projectors
1) LED projectors + matrix
This type of projectors is simple to disgrace. It is based on the fact that the luminous flux created by a powerful LED passes through a special TFT matrix with improved light transmission (as the manufacturers write), and after the matrix, the color picture gets on the mirror and then on to the projection lens.
+: simplicity, sufficient brightness
-: no deep black, fan noise, dimensions
2) DLP projectors (on a single chip)
This type of projectors is based on the fact thatLuminous flux passing through a color wheel rotating very quickly gets onto a DMD chip, which is a huge number of small mirrors that reflect the rays onto the lens and create a picture. This type of projection is based on the fact that the human brain itself glues one whole picture from the red / green / blue / white / black pictures created through the wheel.
+: good contrast, compact, quiet
-: low brightness, rainbow effect possible
DLP projectors on a single chip can cause a rainbow effect, with some people seeing them, some not, but it affects everyone’s eyes (my personal opinion is based on various dissertations).
3) 3LCD projectors
This type of projectors is based on the fact thatthe luminous flux is either divided into a red / blue / green prism, or, each color is separately created by the corresponding LED and then each color goes separately to its matrix and then all three pictures are combined into one picture and then onto a DMD chip and then onto a projection lens.
+: good contrast, small size, little noise, no rainbow effect, normal brightness
-: more expensive (relative to the rest), a small amount of information in the Russian Federation from buyers
After reading reviews and various articles on the Internet, it was decided to purchase a projector using LED + matrix technology with the following characteristics declared by the manufacturer:
Projection System 5.8 "LCD Panel + LED Bulbs
Native Resolution 1280 * 800
720p / 1080p resolution support
Brightness 4500Lumens (LED MAX)
4000: 1 contrast ratio
Number of colors displayed 16.7 million Full color
Focus Manual Focus
Aspect ratio 16: 9 and 4: 3
Image size (diagonal) 60 "~ 300" (Not more than 300 ")
Projection distance 1.5 m - 5.5 m
360 degree flip reverse image
Type of lamp LED
Lamp power 220 W
Lamp life 30,000 hours -50,000 (average 20 years)
Vertical Keystone Correction ± 15 degrees
Interface: 2HDMI, VGA, AV, YPbPr, AUDIO IN / audio output, video, 2USB, TV tuner, S-Video, RJ45 Internet port, SD (TF card) port
Video signal format NTSC, PAL, SECAM
Can be used with WII / XBOX / XBOX360 / DVD / Blu-ray / PS1 / PS2 / PS3 / Analog TV / Laptp / ..ect
Net weight 4 kg
Power Supply 100 to 240 V, 50 to 60 Hz (US CABLE)
Power Consumption 240 W
Languages Russian, English, Spanish, etc.
Others have built-in Android 4.2
The seller is responsive, quickly and on business answeredall my questions. The projector was ordered at the end of May with delivery of EMS, instead of the usual free mail, with a surcharge of $ 37. I wrote to the seller that I wanted black and began to wait, however, a week passed, and the parcel number was not there, I began to ask the seller, and as a result, after 10 days from the moment of payment, the projector was sent to me and apologized (just black was not available) and promised to put more on 3D glasses for inconvenience, then the projector went fast, about 4 days after the dispatch I took the projector from the EMS department, where, due to its size, it was used as a stand for all other packages, although different kind of information that inside is a fragile load on box b It was ... in a word - the post office of the Russian Federation.
The box is dented reasonably. When unpacking, I wrote a video, here I am attaching screenshots from the video:
Next, I propose to consider the scope of delivery: 1) The projector itself - 1 piece
2) Power cable - 1 piece (about 1.5-2m)
3) HDMI cable - 1 piece (1.5m, white, quality is not up to par, the tablet was not fastidious to the signal, it did not start up on it)
4) Mouse - 1 piece (ordinary wireless lightweight for 1 battery, black, for USB)
5) VGA cable - 1 piece (about 1.5 m)
6) 3D Red / Blue glasses - 2 pieces (promised 3, it doesn’t matter, but the sediment remains)
7) Cable “tulip” - 1 piece (I don’t remember the length)
8) Remote control - 1 piece (without batteries naturally)
9) Bag with a spare fuse and 4 M4 screws for attaching the projector to the plate
10) Instruction - 1 piece (English)
11) A book / napkin for cleaning lenses - 1 piece (stupid thing)
In customs documents, the price of goods is indicated by the seller at $ 100.
Consider the front facade:
On the front side we see the inlet forair with a filter (the filter is easily removed without disassembling the projector), on the top right there is a rectangular screen behind which the IR transmitter for the remote control, and the bottom right (red circle) is a decorative element (I came to this conclusion after disassembling the projector). The lens itself is closed with a rubberized cap, practical, sits tight.
Consider the projector from above:
Here we see the power indicator (green) /turn off (red) the projector and control buttons. There are navigation buttons (up / down / right / left), OK buttons and buttons for switching the input signal mode.
On the left side there is only an SD card slot, on the left there is only a hole for leaving hot air, there is no photo here.
I don’t really understand how it happened, but there’s not a single photo of my projector on the back where the ports are located, so we’ll consider uploading a picture from the seller:
Here we see the trapezoid correction wheel andhot air outlet and ports themselves. I don’t see any sense in describing the ports, the seller did it perfectly in the picture, but I will especially pay attention to the presence of two HDMI and an entrance to the old slingshot antenna.
Because the repair in the room was in full swing, the projector was connected for the test from the “goat” to the usual plastered wall and, of course, was filmed, but because the video is uninformative, then there is no sense in uploading it. Because to check the picture adequately there was still no possibility (not counting the projection onto the suspended ceiling), then quite high (for an empty room then) noise from the projector coolers immediately caught my eye. Understanding that the Chinese guarantee of 1 year is more a myth than reality, I climbed inside, simultaneously grabbing the camera.
Immediately make a reservation that the photos were taken at different times and therefore may differ in the tones and settings of the camera.
For disassembly, we need one crossa long screwdriver and a Chinese tool for magnetizing a screwdriver (an indispensable thing turned out to be plenty of reviews on the musk). One of the bolts was sealed with paper (something like a seal).
The purpose of the analysis of the projector was a visual checkthe purity of optics, as well as the study of the structure of the projector and the integrity of the structure. Because I did not like the noisy cooling fans, it was immediately decided to get to them and analyze the feasibility of replacing them with better ones.
Themselves "default" cooler DFS902512H 12V 0.25A
As a result, the following photos were prepared for sending to the seller:
A huge amount of dust on the mirror (which indirectly indicates the manufacturability of the assembly)
Crack in the mirror at the LED
And one loose wire from one of the speakers
All this was sent to the seller with an offer.take it to a specialized repair center with invoice to the seller, it was also indicated that the noise was too high (unlike the 30 dB indicated in the advertisement). In rem. Diagnostics of the projectors is done at the center for free and they said that in general the quality of the projector is not bad with a good lens, and the crack in the mirror of the LED does not affect the operation. The replacement of coolers was rated at least $ 100 (at that time).
I was asked by the seller to refund me onlythe cost of new 2 coolers that I will install myself. The seller delicately asked about my qualifications that I so boldly climb into a technically difficult thing. I chose 92x92x25 Arctic Cooling F9 TC fans with temperature control (just because they were only available) and asked the seller $ 30 (cooler + delivery), but the seller reimbursed $ 40 (I can describe it, I'm a little tough, but the communication the seller was held in a very good-natured manner and he passed on my questions to the engineers and gave answers). The replacement of coolers is a simple process. Because on the projector board, for each cooler there are only 2a contacts and the connectors are different from the connectors of the new cooler, you just had to cut and spliced 2a of the main wires, and the third wire from the new coolers (rotation speed control wire) was simply removed. The cooler temperature sensor wire was shoved into the radiator to control the temperature (useless).
It looked something like this
Yes, yes, everyone’s favorite blue electrical tape is present (there was no shrinkage).
Plug it all into a power outlet and watch .... everything works fine and the noise annoying me greatly decreased (unfortunately, there was nothing to measure the difference, on the smartphone the sound level meter values are frankly delusional).
But here a much more interestingproblem. In the process of collecting all this miracle back, I hooked the projector matrix cable with my hand and tore it up (it was like a thin sheet of paper) ... we refused to solder such a cable in the city (40 pin) and had to write off the seller for the purchase of components. I was immediately told that this is the most expensive element of the projector, and the loop from the matrix is non-removable (soldered). After a couple of days, he gave the answer - all the same unfortunate $ 40 (this is with delivery). I ordered and began to wait.
Well, there was nowhere to retreat and the projector underwent a more detailed disassembly. Next are photos of the inside of the projector with my comments:
General view of the projector immediately after removing the cover. Here we see the cable going to the control panel on the cover. The green board is the brain of the projector into which all the cables converge, it is attached with a couple of bolts, let's take a look at what's under it.
Here we consider in more detail. At the top right, we see the LED itself with a screen for spreading light (to the left). The LED itself is located on a steel plate, which is connected by copper (or brass) tubes with two radiators (top right and bottom right) on which the fans are located. Then I’ll notice from myself that one fan (in a black box) is located on the inside of the radiator and blows air through the radiator (by the way, in the instructions it is called a fan blowing into the case, but not blowing), but here it works by blowing. The second fan works by blowing and is located on the outside of the radiator “removing” heat from it. The seller said that everything is correct in the projector, and the error in the instructions / advertisement.
To the left of the LED screen in a black boxFresnel lenses and a 5.8 ”projector matrix are located. The luminous flux coming from the LED “straightens” in the first lens and hits the matrix, then goes to the second Fresnel lens and then to the mirror on the left side of the projector and from there to the projection lens. Behind the mirror is the same Android and a cyclone fan for cooling the mirror / android.
The radiators themselves are near.
I ask for help from specialists. By the fact that I was driven by the current when the power was off, I assume that I got into the capacitor, and that this board is responsible for converting 220V voltage to the necessary device. Also, the projector has another similar board, apparently for lower currents.
An android board and a nearby speaker labeled 3W. The android board itself is made like a sandwich with a radiator in the middle, and it’s difficult to disassemble it without breaking it, I didn’t get it, and it makes no sense, but there is a bunch of wires.
The same cyclone mirror / Android fan, next to it is a board with external connectors. The WI-FI module antenna is also immediately visible, a real full antenna soldered / glued at the bottom.
70C resettable fuse, its presence surprised me a lot.
About a month passed and I waited for a new matrix, unpacked, installed and
epic fail…. It’s clear that already during unpacking I realized that the matrix is dead
I sent the seller a video of unpacking the matrix and he sent it again to me, but he packed it from the heart, after a month I received it and everything is fine here.
The projector is in operation Well, now we proceed directly to the operation of the projector.
First, we measure the temperature of the projector after a little “optimization”. For the purity of the experiment, I twisted the brightness to maximum and drove it so 1 hour to warm up, and then measured it.
55C maximum. I can’t say for sure whether it is a lot or a little, there is a lot of conflicting information on the Internet, but that fact that an increase in temperature negatively affects the longevity of the LED is a fact. Fortunately, the LED costs a penny, and the service life is 20000-50000 hours, which even taking into account the reduction in its service life, even if it is 2a times, is completely fine with me anyway.
Let's start by looking at the projector settings:
Here we have the language settings, interface transparency, reset to default.
Here are the settings for time, alarm, timers, etc.
Here we dwell a little more. In this section, respectively, there are settings for the projector's built-in speakers, but I would not talk about their quality. In general, using a projector without external speakers is, in my opinion, a perversion. The sound from the built-in is not clear, the bass is weak. They say that 2a speakers are of 3W each ... There is a little bit of a mess, if the built-in speakers are turned on, then there is a small crack from them (or from the board), it doesn’t bother, but if you press the “mute” button it disappears, if you just lower it to zero, then there is.
Here, all the settings associated with the picture, there is a ready-made selection of factory modes and one manual.
Further in this section you can configure andaspect ratio and color temperature. There are also “image flip" settings for rear projection when the projector is suspended. There is a setting responsible for the noise of fans !!!, but it does not work, and we already know why ...
Next, consider the built-in android:
There are also projector options on sale withAndroid and analogues without. Here, the android is purely for show. I didn’t even put games. It is suitable for viewing photos or other simple information from a flash drive and for all sorts of specifics. This is what Antuntu tells us about him.
I fully agree with the result of antuntu.
And now we proceed directly to the screen and projection.
But first, my personal opinion about the picture =)
The projector itself in the process of rearrangement was decidedput in a slightly different place and the projection increased. Now the screen size has become 2600 * 1400mm. from a distance of about 4m. I can give more accurate data on the dependence of the projection on the distance in PM or in the comments (thanks, to the mysterious character 1469 from 4pd), because the tablet is not mine and I do not consider it correct to post it in my review.
The projector matrix itself has a resolution of 1200 * 720,which means that with a screen size of 1200 * 720mm, 1 millimeter of the screen will correspond to one pixel, but I got 1 pixel = 2 mm. The visibility of these pixels depends on the distance to the screen.
A good old XBT plate says that my distance is somewhere on the border of convenience. I’d add on my own that I would like FullHD, but there aren’t any of them on the 5.8 ”matrix in China (information from sellers).
Let's move on to color rendering.
Because the projector is built on LED + matrix technology, it gives off black color with gray, and gray slides a bit into bluish (slightly), but in general the picture looks beautiful and saturated, there is enough brightness for viewing during the day with closed windows, but if you turn on the light, then no. The brightness indicated by the seller of 4,500 lumens is still a fairy tale; never believe such numbers. In general, low-cost projectors are, in principle, configured to work in darkened rooms and in the dark show everything they can do. I like the picture from the projector.
Here are some sample tuning tables, but pleasetake into account that the camera does not fully transmit the picture that is actually there. This is especially noticeable on gray (the camera gives a strong blue, the white balance, like changing, did not help who the specialists are, explain what and how).
From the pictures of the gradients it can be seen that the matrix of 16bit and, it seems to me, the response time is not so high there (there is nothing to check). The uniformity of focusing depends on the correct installation of the projector relative to the projected surface, but in general I like it. We read the text over the entire area, but I would not recommend writing code (maybe this very much depends on the distance to the projection).
And now the most important thing is the video.
The video was written by my Sony NEX-5n digital camera, and he didn’t write long parts
YouTube pushes the video, but the essence, I think, is visible. If you need originals - write where, or how to upload.
3D I would not call the red-blue anaglyph full 3D, but the projector reproduces the anaglyph, other 3D formats do not.
You could, of course, search for used projectors withebay for about the same money (for example, benq w1070), but the very idea that the proctor goes out just when it says the built-in counter I do not like, and the Chinese counterpart is very good.
By the way, the measured power consumption of the projector is 200 W / hour.
To summarize: +: Brightness
I would like FullHD
I would like a higher contrast
Well, now the conclusion. I purchased this projector for 14 tr and I think this purchase is very successful. I really like watching concerts on the projector from YouTube (through the receiver with 5.1). Watching movies on a 2600 * 1400 projection leaves a completely different impression than on a conventional TV. If earlier I thought that a projector at home is something unique and impossibly expensive, now I know that it’s not so and you can get a reasonable product for a reasonable price. I would recommend this projector for use in country houses on vacation, and restaurants, for an apartment it is also relevant.
Is it worth it to buy or not, let everyone decideI myself just tried to objectively convey its characteristics to the readers of the portal and, as you may have noticed, I focused on the weaknesses so that the picture was the most objective.
All interested, welcome to our forum thread 4pda.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=586099 according to these projectors, there is the main discussion of all Chinese models.
Special thanks to those who still managedread the entire review to the end. The review was written little by little for a long period and many of the insignificant photos in the review are deteriorated in quality (so as not to overload the page), if you forgot to specify, write, I will gladly add it.
Link to original photos and video files on Yandex - cloud.mail.ru/public/45d5f8b4e606/%D0%9F%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%B5%D0%BA%D1%82%D0%BE%D1%80
Assemble a do-it-yourself folding screen for a projector
We will need:
1) The pipe is stainless steel diameter 40-50mm. (1.5-2mm. Thick) - long in the screen + 10cm.
2) The stainless steel pipe diameter is 10-15mm. (1.5-2mm. Thick) - long in the screen
3) The fabric is blackout or frontlit, or, if this is bad at all, then fabric for stretch ceilings (dense) - choose the dimensions yourself, but with tolerance for winding on the pipe
4) Ball bearing - 1 piece. The outer diameter is as close as possible to the inner diameter of the Larger pipe. Internal depending on the type of mount.
5) Bolts, washers, fasteners to the wall
6) Electric VAZ second-hand window
7) Button for raising / lowering the windows in the car
8) Welding, or “cold welding”.
9) Power supply from a computer
10) Double-sided tape - two pipe lengths
First, take the window and check its operation. To do this, we need to take the power supply (disconnect power) and close two contacts in it (green and black), something like this:
This is necessary to start the power supply unit when we give it power.
Next, we take a small additional power cable to the board(square black cable) and in it, to one black we connect one window of the window regulator, to the yellow one the second wire of the window regulator, we do not touch the other wires. We plug into the network, using all the necessary safety standards (for example, through a good surge protector), look, everything is spinning. Next, you just need to connect the power window button in front of it and get a reverse, but don’t get carried away by frequent short-term pressing of the button — the power supply does not like this (they say).
Next, take a bearing and a bolt whose diametercommensurate with the inner diameter of the bearing, fasten it with nuts through the washer (preferably a grover), if there is no grover, then we prevent it from unwinding. Next, we wind the fabric as well as possible (the beginning is glued with double-sided tape for linoleum), and at the end we also fasten the thin pipe (it will work as a counterweight). Next, we take the pipe and in it, on one side, wedge the bearing (we center it as much as possible !!!) along the outer diameter, and on the other hand, inside the pipe, we wedge the window regulator (through the sleeve or using another method, such as welding). Thus, on one side of the pipe we have a bearing stuck in the outer radius, and on the other side a stuck window. Next, we determine the fastening to the wall / ceiling. Here, everything depends only on imagination. I personally hung like that.
I recommend making gaps in detail for an accuratescreen settings (it should be as parallel as possible to the projector). I used a vertical bolt for precise height adjustment (otherwise there will be waves on the canvas).
Unfortunately, I miscentered the power windowand didn’t select the exact bearing (it was impossible to match the nomenclature of the pipe and the bearing), so I had to drive two bearings into the pipe, wrapping it with very hard rubber, thereby increasing the engagement area. I made a lot of mistakes myself and therefore got waves (I used a stretch ceiling), so learn from my mistakes. Next, we hang it all from the side where the power window (I just pressed it to the wall through the steel plate with anchors) and from the bearing side and adjust.
The cost of construction is about 3 tr, but to make an individual canvas size is priceless.
Then you need to refine everything, hide the wires,Extra insulate. At the very moment, the design itself has stopped at this stage, but I also plan to make a toggle switch with an LED to turn on the power supply, otherwise it’s not practical to keep it turned on, and climbing it to turn it on is impractical, but it's all later, when there is a shelf, until everything is turned off and removed.